Hublot and Samuel Ross complete a trinity of collaborations at Miami Art Week
Zach Blass- Miami Art Week is again the launching pad for Samuel Ross and Hublot’s third collaboration.
- The Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A by Samuel Ross brings carbon into the design for the first time, along with new blue colour accents.
- The watch is limited to 50 pieces, and priced at US$143,000.
Samuel – excuse me – Dr. Samuel Ross is a celebrated artist and designer who first crossed paths with Hublot in 2019 when he was awarded the Hublot Design Prize. To be honest, I first heard of Ross when he became a Hublot brand ambassador in 2020, and became more familiar with the man upon the unveiling of his REFORM sculpture for Hublot’s 40th Anniversary, and the launch of his first-ever collab watch with Hublot in 2022 inspired by REFORM.
It was then followed with a subjectively tamer sequel, shedding the ample orange throughout the case and strap for something far more monochromatic, contrasted by a bold pop of green delivered through its rubber strap.
The framework and size of the latest Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A by Samuel Ross remain in line with its two predecessors. It has a large presence, measuring 44mm in diameter and 13.75mm thick, but where the inaugural Hublot Samuel Ross was fabricated in orange rubber and titanium and its green-accented sequel in shiny micro-blasted titanium, the third outing introduces carbon fibre into the mix. Hublot describes it as “frosted grey carbon”, and it’s strategically used for the midcase considering the scratch-resistant material finds itself at points that are among the most vulnerable for any wristwatch.
We yet again have the signature honeycomb motif, seen both within the lugs and beneath the sapphire dial and exhibition caseback. It’s not necessarily revolutionary, but the watch does play with colour a little differently than before. You’ll find blue accents on the minutes hand; the 4, 8, and 9 o’clock indices; and on the crown and rubber strap. But look closer, and you’ll notice that the blue tones aren’t uniform across these various elements. The previous models had uniform white lume plots, so I’m curious to know what sparked the transition to not only blue indices but also the differing shades.
The honeycomb motif continues around the back to the two included One-Click interchangeable rubber straps, and to remix Hublot’s in-house HUB6035 movement. It’s a movement that’s basically been inverted, with the tourbillon and micro-rotor front and centre, and with the honeycomb acting as the baseplate. Initially, you might find it obscuring the movement, but ultimately it’s effectively on full display on the dial side. The HUB6035 delivers three days of power reserve at a 3Hz beat rate, which is admirable stamina for a tourbillon calibre. It is worth mentioning that the titanium clasp for the watch has undergone a subtle redesign in its third iteration, in which Ross and the Hublot team worked behind the scenes to reduce the width, the height of its profile, and even its weight with a new grade of titanium utilised (requiring an entirely new toolset).
My lack of awareness of Samuel Ross prior to his team-up with Hublot is less a reflection of Ross and more so of the room for people like me to be more cultured beyond the watch scene, considering his incredible resume. He’s worked with brands like Apple, LVMH, and Nike and was notably the first design assistant the late Virgil Abloh ever hired. He has since gone on to create his own labels, such as his industrial design studio SR_A SR_A and fashion label A-COLD-WALL* (which Ross sold in February 2024). I say all of this because Hublot is certainly not a brand that needs outside assistance in creating bold watches, but enlisting someone whose works sit in The Met and who had an entirely new role created for them at Apple is someone certainly worth partnering with. This rings especially true when you consider Hublot’s motto is “the art of fusion”.
Love it or loathe it, as is often the case for Hublot – which has long acted as a counterculture brand that defies the norms and traditions of the industry it pioneers within – Samuel Ross’ latest tourbillon piece is undeniably intriguing and conversation-starting. It is unlike any other watch inside and outside of the Hublot catalogue. Having said that, I would be keen to see what Ross could come up with at the more entry-level end of Hublot’s range. I’m thinking of something like a Classic Fusion, which would be a bit more accessible both in price and dimension. Those within the niche may be quick to presume watch collectors may not have an appetite for such an explorative design but trust me: considering the success of the previous two iterations, the smart bet is there are undoubtedly more than 50 individuals holding space for Samuel Ross’ twist on a Big Bang Tourbillon in their watch collections.
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A by Samuel Ross pricing and availability
The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A by Samuel Ross is available now as a limited edition of 50 pieces. Price: US$143,000
| Brand | Hublot |
| Model | Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A by Samuel Ross |
| Reference Number | 428.NQ.0100.RX.SRA24 |
| Case Dimensions | 44mm (D) x 13.75mm (T) |
| Case Material | Frosted grey carbon and titanium |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Skeletonised with sapphire elements |
| Strap | Blue and black rubber straps, folding clasp |
| Movement | HUB6035, in-house, micro-rotor automatic |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, tourbillon |
| Availability | Limited to 50 pieces |
| Price | US$143,000 |