7 of the best Roman numeral watches that have all the classical elegance you’ll need

Tom Austin

The most elegant and sophisticated watches out there are likely to sport Roman numerals on the dial, as they ensure a touch of cultured refinement. This style has been in use as far back as the 14th century on early clocks such as the one gracing the Wells Cathedral. It may surprise you to know that on most Roman numeral dials, there’s technically a typo, with the 4th hour marker being represented as a IIII instead of a IV. This is known as the clockmaker’s four, and there are many whimsical theories about why it exists. Ask a watch designer, and they may tell you it makes for a more balanced dial symmetry, but ask a 14th century historian, and they might tell you that it was because King Charles V of France considered the IV to be an unlucky omen. The truth is, nobody knows. One thing is for sure – Roman numerals appear not only on some of the most horologically important watches of recent times, but also on a wide array of everyday watches – here’s our list of eight of the best for all budgets.

Timex Waterbury Classic 170th Anniversary Watch

2024 marks Timex’s 170th anniversary, and the year when it began the journey to bring affordable watches to the masses. Then called the Waterbury Clock Company, it sold a particular pocket watch that was sold for its entire production run for the princely sum of just a dollar each. 2024 saw Timex release a limited edition run of 1,000 watches to celebrate these humble beginnings, and you guessed it, they cost just $1 each. They’re, of course, all sold out now, however, it had to be listed here because who doesn’t love a watch for a dollar?

The watch itself is a classically designed dress watch, sized at 40mm and made from stainless steel. Each caseback is engraved with a message saying “This watch celebrates simply great watchmaking since 1854” and “A true American icon”. The watch is part of the Waterbury collection, and uses the Waterbury logo on the bright white dial that also features contrasting Roman numerals, along with classic cathedral hands, and a day and date window at 3 o’clock. For a dollar, you simply can’t go wrong, and with only 1,000 made, it’s quickly becoming a sought-after collectible. Thankfully, you can still pick up the regular Waterbury Classic without the 170th anniversary logo. Price: US$119

Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy

Furlan Marri is a microbrand on the cusp of no longer being a microbrand, exploring vintage-style looks and incorporating modern levels of quality and finishing for a more than reasonable price point. The Outback Elegy is Time+Tide’s collaboration piece with Furlan Marri, celebrating ten years in the business – and I have to say, it’s quite the way to do it. Based on Furlan Marri’s Sector range, the Outback Elegy brings together 1940s dress watch style with a touch of current trends, such as the earthy ochre dial. The beautifully polished stainless steel case sits in the Goldilocks zone of watches at 37.5mm. Perfect for pretty much any wrist, and completely impervious to the ever-changing trend of whatever watch size is currently the one to go for. It’s slim too, at just over 10mm thick, and the case comes complete with cornes de vache-style lugs for that curvaceous yet mature appeal. Finished in a warm, metallic brown which deepens out towards the edge, the dial comes complete with Roman numeral appliqués, in warm rose gold tone. Powering the watch is the LJP G100 automatic with a hefty 68-hour power reserve. Flipping the watch over to see it through the exhibition caseback is pretty cool, too. If ever you’re near one of the Time+Tide Studios, make sure to check it out, as it’s the only place that these are available. Price: A$2,650 (~US$1,750), available from T+T Discovery Studios

Longines Master Collection

The Master Collection is the best-selling collection in Longines’ entire range, and with good reason. There are a number of iterations available, with different dial treatments and furniture, but this sunburst black dial model features delicate applied Roman numerals that give the watch a characterful edge. The case is a 40mm stainless steel affair with a clean, thick bezel that makes the watch appear a little thicker than it is, as it sits on the wrist at 9.35mm. This, combined with the short lugs, means it wears that 40mm size well. The case is closed off with an exhibition caseback, displaying the ETA 2892-base L888.5 that features a simple date function. The black dial, Roman numerals, and classic leaf hands make the Master Collection a superb choice as a daily wearer or a watch for special occasions – like a great 21st birthday gift, for example. Price: US$2,225

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

We couldn’t have this list without the ruler of the Roman numeral dials, Cartier. It was difficult to choose from such an illustrious catalogue of incredible pieces, all of which are very much defined by those signature hour markers. There is one watch that overrules all in the Cartier range for me, and that has to be the Tank Louis Cartier. A cultural icon, it was created in 1917 by the eponymous Cartier founder, with its shape inspired by the French military tanks of the First World War. It’s gone on to adorn the wrists of some of the most influential figures in history, such as Princess Diana, Andy Warhol, and Muhammad Ali, to name just a few, and as a result, it is now one of the most iconic watches of all time. In its current form, my pick would be the mid-sized yellow gold case, blued steel sword hands, and a beaded crown with that all-important cabochon. Over the years, there have been multiple iterations of the dial, but the most popular is indeed the famous Roman numeral version, and if you look closely at the 7 o’clock marker, you’ll see the secret Cartier logo. It’s just one of those watches that will never go out of style. Price: starting from US$10,200

Chopard Alpine Eagle

It’s not that often you find a sports watch with Roman numerals, and perhaps that’s because they could be seen as being somewhat out of place on a stainless steel watch designed for contemporary active lifestyles. Chopard proves this theory wrong with the Alpine Eagle. The irony is, nobody is really using these luxury “sport watches” for that purpose. Instead, they’re now much more of a jewellery piece, or an expression of style. Chopard is clearly very aware of this fact, and with the Alpine Eagle, has created a watch that has all the abilities of your everyday sports watch, in a package that is sexy and refined. Sat on the wrist at 41mm, it’s not a small watch, but its porthole design along with the integrated bracelet shape brings that visual size down a notch, especially being only 9.7mm thick. Beautifully finished, the case’s unique facets are finely brushed and polished. The dial choices on the Alpine Eagle are quite varied, but our favourite has to be this pine-green PVD-coated iris-textured dial. Swirling from the centre outwards, in a unique sunburst motif, its emblazoned with large and rather blocky Roman numerals, but Chopard has done a great job of matching these classic hour markers with the overall style of the watch. Powering the watch is Chopard’s 01.01-C automatic movement, which is COSC-certified and offers a 60-hour power reserve. In a sea of integrated-bracelet luxury sports watches, the Alpine Eagle is a strong, unique alternative. Price: starting from US$14,800

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 does something remarkable, appearing both contemporary and traditional at the same time, expressing the German brand’s creativity and respect for history. If you look at the Lange 1 and initially think the offset dial is somewhat scattered and doesn’t make sense, but then for some unknown reason it actually does the opposite, you’ve just been ratioed. Golden ratioed, that is. The dial layout with the oversized date, time display featuring those all-important Roman numerals, and running seconds sub-dial, are all actually placed in positions based on this natural phenomenon.

So it’s no surprise that the Lange 1 has gone on to become one of the most influential watches of the modern era, and that’s before we’ve even talked about the finishing. The Lange 1’s impeccable casework houses the L121.1, a visually striking, manually wound movement, which is hand-finished to a breathtakingly fine level. The balance cock is engraved with the Lange-style floral pattern that makes each watch unique. The Lange 1 is a glorious example of A Lange & Söhne’s capabilities, and with each piece featuring Roman numerals on that dial of “divine proportion”, it deserves a place on this list. Price: starting from US$44,700

Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Black Onyx

It’s said that Laurent Ferrier’s preference is “subtlety and discretion”, and nothing in the range represents this more than the Classic Tourbillon. Upon first glance, it just looks like a minimal time-only, black-dial watch. Hell, if you don’t get to handle it you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s stainless steel – that is until you look a little closer. The 41mm pebble-shaped case is crafted from 18k white gold, featuring Laurent Ferrier’s signature soft lines and curves. Centred is a dial made from black onyx, a stone that the ancient Roman army would carry into battle, engraved with depictions of Mars, the god of war. This is a very subtle connection with the finely painted Roman numerals adorning the dial.

Hiding behind the dial is a complex manually wound movement: a double spiral tourbillon with opposing double balance springs, beautifully decorated, and only visible through the caseback. There’s something very cool about knowing you have something akin to a Formula 1 engine under the hood of your understated, stylish sleeper. The Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon is a beautifully finished contemporary watch with classic elements and beautiful finishing. What more do you need? Price: CHF 180,000 (~US$205,000)

Time+Tide Timeless Pick: Philippe Dufour Grande et Petite Sonnerie

First unveiled in 1992, the result of decades of development, and more than two years of craftsmanship for each watch, the Philippe Dufour Grande et Petite Sonnerie is widely regarded as one of the most important wristwatches ever, and its maker one of the finest watchmakers ever. One of the most important aspects of the watch is the miniaturisation of the minute repeater movement, which was once the reserve of much larger pocket watches. The Grande et Petite Sonnerie was the first-ever wristwatch to sport it. Although in 1992 this would have been considered rather large, I think we can forgive its brawny, yet refined proportions today.

With its wide, domed bezel and tapered lugs, the case doesn’t draw in too much attention and retains a balanced look. The dial is a stunning example of craftsmanship, a two-level fired enamel affair, with a running seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, Breguet hands, and of course, Roman numerals. Underneath the hinged hunter case back sits the magnificent sonnerie calibre, with a twin barrel arrangement, consisting of one to power the timekeeping aspect, and the other for the striking. Every single component has been honed and finished by hand, with every surface bevelled, polished and crafted to perfection. It’s simply awe-inspiring to see such craftsmanship, and it makes absolute sense as to why these pieces give Philippe Dufour such a reputation. Dufour’s Grande et Petite Sonnerie No. 1 went on to set a record in November 2021, becoming the most expensive independent watch ever (since overtaken by a special F.P. Journe), when it achieved nearly US$5.2 million at Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XIV.