10 of the best stealth watches that fly under the radar

Zach Blass

Watch collectors may praise fine finishes and flourishes, glistening bevels and chamfers, and bursts of colour – but in a balanced collection, or for collectors who prefer not to peacock via their wrists, it’s nice to have a stealthy watch that can hide in plain sight. Below are ten of the best stealth watches that fly (and flex) under the radar.

Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo NB6025-59H

Dive watches like a Rolex Submariner are immediately recognisable from across a room, and the Submariner’s design laid the groundwork for many dive watches we see today. The Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo has such elements, but it leans into a stealth feel with its smoky grey dial and dark, naturally-hued Super Titanium case. Armed with an in-house automatic movement and 200 metres of water resistance, the 41mm dive watch delivers familiarity with stealth subtlety at excellent value, coming in at the sub-US$1,000 price point. Price: US$956

Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Auto

A Swiss step up, or step in a different direction, Hamilton’s Khaki Field Titanium Auto has all of the hallmarks the value-driven collection is known for and more. The black PVD-coated titanium cases, 100 metres water-resistant, are available in both 38mm and 42mm, offering size variety, and both are affixed to case-matching bracelets that meet flush to the case for an integrated feel. Inside, the 80-hour automatic movement supplies a longer power reserve than many watches just above and well beyond its lower price point. Price: US$1,245 (38mm), US$1,295 (42mm)

Sinn U1 SE

For those who would like a larger watch, but not necessarily a louder watch, Sinn’s U1 SE is an excellent and highly robust option to consider. Aside from its patina-like orange luminous material and scales, the watch, its bezel, dial, rubber strap and clasp, and “Black Hard Coating” treated Tegimented German submarine steel case are all clad in black. This 44mm watch, reasonably 50.5mm lug-to-lug, is a watch you will have very little to worry about in terms of scratching and certainly diving, considering its 1,000 metres of water resistance.  Price: US$3,560

Bell & Ross BR-03 Phantom

A watch I once owned its PVD-coated steel iteration, and at times miss quite a bit, the Bell & Ross BR-03 Phantom is the epitome of stealth – an entirely blacked out, perhaps too blacked-out, design. Legibility is sacrificed for fashion and aesthetics, the all-black dial is by no means impossible to read during the day but not super easy to discern in darker settings. I remember the 42mm square instrument watch having a noticeable heft on the wrist in its steel days, but in its transition to ceramic, the watch no longer overwhelms the wrist in feel nor reveals steel tones beneath when scratched – remember, ceramic is scratch-resistant. An automatic Sellita base drives the 100-metre water-resistant watch, but the glamour of this design is its distinct inspiration from aviation cockpit instruments and its usage of ceramic below US$5,000. Price: US$4,300

IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Top Gun

For a more conventionally shaped ceramic Pilot’s watch, IWC has plenty of stealthy pilot’s watches within its catalogue. One of the more accessible pieces within this segment of its range is the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic TOP GUN IW326906, a 41mm watch, 11.4mm thick and 60 metres water-resistant, with a matte black ceramic case and 5-day automatic IWC-manufactured movement. Should you want to exit stealth mode, the 20mm wide strap boasts IWC’s EasX-Change interchangeable system that opens the door to a wide range of coloured straps for the watch.  Price: US$6,350

Hublot Classic Fusion Original Black Magic

Those indoctrinated into the cult of Nico may be quick to scoff at the Hublot Classic Fusion Original, but the Classic Fusion remains Hublot’s best-selling watch. You can have your feels about the Sellita-based automatic movement that may clash with your notions of pricing. Such a point of feedback is not entirely unfair. Ultimately, the Classic Fusion Original is a handsome daily wearer design that birthed the luxury-watch-on-rubber trend. Suit up or surface swim, the Black Magic variant of the Classic Fusion Original is a sleek and stealth lineup that looks great on the wrist and has the advantage of being available in multiple sizes. Price: US$7,600 (33mm/quartz), US$8,900 (38mm/automatic), US$10,400 (42mm/automatic)

TAG Heuer Monaco Special Edition Dark Lord

Within the square watch space, among watches that are truly square (not rectangular), the TAG Heuer Monaco is the undisputed icon of the segment – the first square chronograph ever made. One of the most coveted and collectable models of the Monaco is the ref. 740.303N, which, as watches are known to obtain, was given the nickname “The Dark Lord” due to its PVD black steel case and black dial and is known to sell well into the five figures when they scarcely come to auction. This is why when TAG Heuer revived the design with its Monaco Special Edition ‘Dark Lord, ‘ the TAG and watch community went nuts. While it is hard to beat the romance of vintage, the original was notoriously prone to scratching. So, the modern model has the advantage of being a bit more gritty and robust and will not set your bank account back nearly as much as the vintage OG. Price: US$9,200

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow

We are well on the record for loving Zenith watches forged in the brand’s micro-blasted titanium, but the stealth Zenith I have to put forward and is still possible to buy, is the Chronomaster Revival Shadow. Once strictly sold on a strap, Zenith has since added a tasty configuration that is sold on a case-matching ladder bracelet. At 37mm in diameter and 12.6mm thick, the hi-beat automatic chronograph sits very classically and comfortably on the wrist. Vintage design blended with modern manufacturing and aesthetics netted a surefire winner for Zenith. Price: US$9,800

Bulgari Octo Finissimo

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has become a venerated modern icon and an Italian twist on the integrated bracelet watch craze that has gone on to take home a seemingly infinite number of GPHG awards and records for ultra-thinness. Being so slender, the design is very stealthy in that it will never have any trouble sliding under the cuff. In its original titanium form, its sandblasted finish and monochromatic nature offer a stealthy appearance. The stainless steel models, however, have eye-catching polished accents and colourful dials, and the largely stealthy CarbonGold models give up their position with their bursts of solid gold accents. So, aside from the titanium original, the ultra-stealth Finissimo has to be the black ceramic model. Price: US$16,100 (titanium), US$18,800 (black ceramic)

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm

Speaking of integrated bracelet designs, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato has begun to receive the credit it has long been due in the watch marketplace. A very solid in-house manufactured offering, the Laureato in black ceramic delivers the quality and vibes of the watches it is often pitted against but at a noticeably lower retail price. Price: US$20,300