The Baltic Hermétique Tourer Bronze proves we’re not over the power of patina (live pics)
Buffy Acacia- Baltic outfits the latest Hermétique with a mixed-finish bronze case and green dial.
- The CuAl8 bronze alloy is generally the less reactive one, though still expect patina to develop over time.
- Pricing starts at €600, and you can expect the Hermétique Tourer Bronze in the T+T Shop soon.
Baltic didn’t become one of the world’s best-known microbrands from any trite gimmicks, fake histories or outlandish designs. It got there because it was one of the first to produce vintage-inspired watches that actually looked straight out of the ‘50s and ‘60s, but tweaked with gorgeous colour combinations and great value for money. Although the bronze case trend of the Covid years has slowed from an avalanche to a trickle, Baltic is well aware there’s still a place for bronze in our watch collections. The new Baltic Hermétique Tourer Bronze is what you may have been waiting for if you don’t yet own a bronze watch.
The first and most important thing to acknowledge about the Hermétique Tourer Bronze is that it’s not a dive watch, so it instantly sheds the stereotypical image of bronze microbrand watches that’s been built up in the last few years. That said, its water resistance of 150 metres is locked in with a recessed crown, so it can easily survive a swim. Bronze watchmaking has its origins in diving, due to the material’s corrosion resistance against salt water environments. A resistance to corrosion doesn’t mean it’s impervious to change though, because the CuAl8 bronze alloy will eventually develop a unique patina depending on your skin chemistry and wear habits.
Stylistically, the case of the Hermétique Tourer is most similar to a 1960s everyday watch. Poise and elegance have been given priority, down to the recessed crown that can be a little tricky to grip, but ultimately grants the watch a fantastic silhouette. The brushed lugs help the polished bezel to gleam, and overall, the golden hue of the CuAl8 bronze could easily be mistake for actual gold if if you maintain the shine. The 37mm diameter captures vintage charm perfectly without sacrificing too much wrist presence, and the 46mm lug-to-lug should be suitable for any gender. The total thickness is 10.8mm including the domed sapphire crystal, giving it an incredibly slender profile on the wrist.
While the case of the Baltic Hermétique Tourer Bronze feels dressy, the dial lives in a beautiful balance between sportiness and almost Art Deco sensibilities. The outer chapter ring is segmented by a bright, golden ring that divides the dial, and also adds depth thanks to the heightened movement of lights and shadows. The train track minute markers feel contained and crisp, interrupted only by thick hour markers made from Swiss Super-LumiNova for visibility after dark. The blue dial version has blue luminescence, while the others have green.
Within the golden circle, syringe hour and minute hands point clearly to their designated area while still retaining enough thickness to be packed with lume. Even the seconds hand has a lollipop of lume along its length, with a small counterbalance at the back end. Aside from the luminous numerals, the dial text has been kept minimal in a vintage style, sans-serif typeface, bearing only the logo, model name, and “150M”. Three colour variants have been made available in fumé gradients, in blue, green, and stunning brown.
Although I feel that many owners will want to put this watch on a leather strap eventually, the inclusion of an FKM rubber strap in the classical Tropic style was a great move. The rubber is colour-coordinated to the dial so it doesn’t look out of place, and they’re perfect for swimming or staying comfortable in hot climates. Should you want to swap it out for something more formal however, you’ll have an easy time. The lugs are drilled for easy access with a spring bar tool, and the lugs themselves have a width of 20mm, making a plethora of aftermarket options suitable.
If you’re wondering how Baltic could make a 150-metre water-resistant watch that’s only 8.3mm thick without the crystal, then you can thank the Miyota 9039. It’s one of the Japanese brand’s premium automatic calibres that’s still an affordable alternative to Swiss movements, while pretty much matching them for specs. Its total height is just 3.9mm, and it provides a smooth 4Hz sweep of the seconds hand and a 42 hour power reserve. The accuracy rating from the factory is -10/+30 seconds per day, and most people find their results to be well within that range. Should anything ever go wrong outside of the warranty, they’re easy movements to service or just replace.
Before I saw this release, I would have said that bronze watches were pretty much over. But whether it’s the appropriation of bronze for a dressier look, or just the fact that I’d be won over by any Baltic Hermétique, this new collection has definitely opened my mind back up. The appeal of an object that changes with you is always strong, and the dial’s mix of field watch clarity and dress watch classiness is captivating. Miyota 9039 movements have a fantastic reputation, so there are really no complaints for the price, either.
Baltic Hermétique Tourer Bronze price and availability
The Baltic Hermétique Tourer Bronze is now available. Price: €600 exc. VAT (~US$630), coming to the Time+Tide Shop soon
| Brand | Baltic |
| Model | Hermétique Tourer Bronze |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 10.8mm (T) x 46mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | CuAl8 Bronze |
| Water Resistance | 150 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire with anti-reflective coating |
| Dial | Blue, green, or brown fumé |
| Bracelet and strap | FKM rubber Tropic style |
| Movement | Miyota 9039, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | €600 |