Andrew unboxes his Toledano & Chan B/1

Andrew McUtchen

In the box that I unbox in the video below is a watch that was released this year. It’s from a microbrand that had never released any watches before it, and yet, is commanding a minimum of a 50% premium above its retail price – up to 100%. So, within no time at all, the brand’s first watch is now worth at least 50% more than when it was released. That means two things. First, the price was underestimated and, second, this watch is hot. This is the Toledano & Chan B/1.

I’m responsible partly for not only drinking the Kool-Aid, but making the Kool-Aid. I have fallen into the trap of being incredibly fascinated not just by the shape and design of this brutalist-inspired watch that is like no other I’ve seen, but also by the style of watchmaking that it represents right now, which is unusual shapes and much more avant-garde design than we are seeing from big box brands. I saw this watch for the first time in Geneva, and you know what I did? I bought it.

I bought it for full price, and I bought it from the gentleman that made it. Alfred Chan is one half of the brand and the designer of this watch. His partner in brutalist crime, Phil Toledano, curiously developed their entire relationship over Zoom as they designed this watch. But before we get into the watch itself, look at the box they designed for it. It looks like it’s made of solid concrete, and it certainly feels just as heavy. Interestingly, it has inclusions in it – giving it a natural, raw feel – like a weird concrete coffin. The irregular shape shares the muse of the B/1’s case, inspired by a window found on the Met Breuer building. It appears almost one-to-one in form.

This is a watch unlike any I have seen. In the renders, it looked like a slightly disfigured Rolex King Midas – a model that inspired Alfred and Phil – and certainly Phil with his geezer collection of Midas and Cellini Rolexes. But once in hand, the volumes, dimensions, and actual shape make it look closer to an X-Wing Fighter from Star Wars.

I wasn’t intending to buy it. I can appreciate watches and how different they are and how bold, creative, and exciting the design is. The Selita movement is certainly not uncommon, but as you can immediately tell, the externals have so many quirks to them. It has the peculiarity of being a “destro” watch that you wear with the crown on the left.

The case has this bizarre – but very cool – on-wrist slope that makes it thicker. It creates a wedge effect. If you ask about the thickness of the watch, it’s 9mm thick on the crown end of the case, and 10.4mm thick on the opposite side. Also, what’s so unusual about this watch in hand is the links, which are all individually crafted and have different lengths.

Its lapis lazuli stone dial does not adhere to a beauty standard created in the ’70s when the Swiss decided that lapis lazuli would have to be uniform – a beauty standard that meant that it all had that similar, uniform electric blue appearance. This, on the other hand, is proudly “galaxy lapis”, as Phil is calling it, which has these flecks of gray and silver through the blue. This stems from Toledano’s artistic sensibility. He is someone who likes to provoke, he likes to titillate and do things to scratch at you.

The crown is quite recessed on the left, and good friend and prolific watch designer Emmanuel Gueit said he’d wear it the wrong way round, because there’s nothing to stop him from wearing the crown on the right. There are no numerals or indices, so you can technically swing it any way you like. You can have the crown on the right, or you can wear it with the crown on the left as intended.

This is something that will be instantly recognisable amongst less than 150 people in the world at this point, and I just applaud the bravery. I applaud the genuine design intention to surprise, delight, and to create something with fully bespoke elements. I don’t know how they achieved this watch at US$4,000. Yes, it has a closed caseback. It has a Sellita movement – there is nothing really to talk about there. Then again, it’s still a Swiss made movement. But what a bold, bizarre, little building of a watch to craft out of steel and put on the wrist. Phil, Alfred – you are evil geniuses. I am a proud and very grateful owner of this watch, and I’m glad I jumped on it when I did. It was an absolute shock to put this watch on my wrist, and to still get that kind of excitement from a watch is unusual for me these days.

I can’t imagine this is a one-hit-wonder. There are so many ways they can adapt this design to keep it interesting. It will be intriguing to see what these gentlemen reveal next, and I imagine many of you felt the sharp knife of F.O.M.O when it sold out, and are eager for an opportunity to purchase one – whenever they debut its successor.

Toledano & Chan B/1 pricing and availability

The Toledano & Chan B/1 is unfortunately now sold out. Price: US$4,000

Brand	Toledano & Chan
Model	B/1
Case Dimensions	33.5mm (W) x 10.4mm (T)
Case Material	904L stainless steel
Water Resistance	50 metres
Crystal(s)	Sapphire
Dial	Lapis lazuli
Bracelet	Integrated steel bracelet, folding clasp
Movement	Sellita SW100, automatic
Power Reserve	42 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes
Availability	Sold out
Price	US$4,000 (original RRP)