7 of the best stealth wealth watches that exude old money

Borna Bošnjak

Old money style is characterised by focusing on classic, timeless elegance that’s executed with subtle sophistication and a sense of effortlessness. The world of luxury watches can be often be interpreted as vulgar – which is understandable considering some designs. As technologically advanced as a Richard Mille may be, you’ll rarely spot it on the wrist of a Cucinelli-clad individual, which is the whole idea behind this “quiet luxury” trend that has come and go over the last year. So, what are these watches subtly blending in on the wrists of families relaxing in the idyllic port towns of the Côte d’Azur and Amalfi Coast? While the whole idea is that they’re not super noticeable – the following list will point you in the right direction.

Cartier Tank Must

Like most watches in this list, the Cartier Tank has a rich history. It’s a watch based on Louis Cartier’s original creation from 1917, essentially representing the foundations of the brand’s wristwatch heritage and as such, becoming a horological icon. The Tank has been worn by some of the most legendary figures in history, but doesn’t shout about it. Its small proportions mean it slips under the cuff quietly and doesn’t draw attention. Yes, there are solid gold iterations that might be more fitting of the “stealth wealth” theme, but there’s absolutely nothing wrong with a steel, quartz variant either. It’s a timeless classic that belongs on the wrist of anyone who doesn’t want their luxury wristwatch to draw unwanted attention – and a bit of a cheat (or cheap) code to achieving that trendy quiet luxury look. Price: US$3,450

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW301 and SBGW305

Grand Seiko is most often associated with vibrant, detailed dials inspired by natural elements, which means that the brand’s simpler models often get overlooked. This is unfortunate, though consistent with the low-key theme of this article, making the SBGW301 and SBGW305 an ideal pick. With either stark white or subtle cream dials, this duo from the Elegance collection sport hand-wound movements and Grand Seiko’s wonderful case and dial appliqué finishing. Price: US$4,900 (SBGW301), US$5,700 (SBGW305)

Nomos Lambda 39

Nomos might be a left-field pick for this category, but its Lambda collection’s pared-back Bauhaus approach seems the perfect fit. It’s cased in 39mm of solid gold, and the minimalist dial even incorporates a complication, courtesy of the beautifully decorated DUW 1001 movement that sports a hand-engraved balance cock and screwed gold chatons dotting the sunray-striped three-quarter plate often used by German watchmakers. Price: US$17,000

Rolex Perpetual 1908

2023 saw Rolex retire the Cellini and introduce its latest interpretation of a classic dress watch – the Perpetual 1908. Its name marks the year the brand was created, ushering in a new period in Rolex’s timeline that looks to recapture its appeal to a more horologically mature audience. Love them or loathe them, Rolexes don’t tend to sit in the subtle category, be it for their high-polished 904L steel surfaces or ceramic bezels – but the Perpetual 1908 drops that act. It subtly incorporates signature features like the fluted bezel and Mercedes hands, and it’s especially stealthy in this black dial and white gold combination. Price: US$23,300

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-winding 39mm

What would a watch worn by emperors and rulers look like? As it happens, it would be a Vacheron Constantin. Since its inception in Geneva in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has been long associated with being worn by nobles and royalty like Louis XIV, the Maharajah of Patiala, and even Queen Elizabeth II. It’s the brand’s fine finishing, unique complications, and longevity that have earned Vacheron Constantin its position in the Holy Trinity, but looking at models such as the 20th anniversary Patrimony, you wouldn’t immediately notice. The case is white gold to keep it low-key, the dial is delicately laid out, but the attention to detail is in the quality and finishing, everything here is crafted to perfection. Price: US$25,200

Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P

There’s nothing quite like a perpetual calendar complication in a wristwatch, some even consider them the pinnacle of contemporary watchmaking. Patek Philippe, one of the pioneers in bringing the complication to the wristwatch, felt there was a problem with it. Rather than the difficult-to-read sub-dials, Patek created the reference 5236, a watch that was touted as one of the brand’s best releases by a Patek expert. This is the In-Line Perpetual Calendar, with the day, date, and month all aligned for easy legibility. Cased in platinum and adorned with a brushed and graduated blue dial, the 5236 features all the major aspects you’d expect from a Patek grand complication piece, but in this watch they’re packaged in a way that they almost disappear. The date window, moonphase display, day/night, and leap year indicators are all positioned carefully for peak legibility, but at the same time completely transforming the look you might expect from a perpetual calendar. Price: US$141,400

Time+Tide Timeless Pick: Philippe Dufour Grande et Petite Sonnerie

Upon first glance, the Philippe Dufour Grande et Petite Sonnerie is just a gold wristwatch. It could be just another vintage piece with a nice enamel dial, with simple proportions and nothing obvious that stands out to most people in the wild. But, of course, this is the Philippe Dufour Grande et Petite Sonnerie, the first-ever wristwatch housing this complication, and finished to absolute perfection by one of the greatest watchmakers of all time. The aforementioned Roman numeral dial is grand feu enamel – the most classic execution of this dial-making technique – but the real show begins when you open the hunter caseback. If we’re talking about ultra-luxury watches that don’t scream it – is there possibly a better example than this? I don’t think so. Price: US$5,000,000+ at auction