The Hemel Airfoil HF15 is a practical pilot for the nostalgic soul
Buffy Acacia
With the exception of a few divers and field watches here and there, Hemel has carved out a firm niche in pilot’s watches. They’re one of the ultimate sub-genres that go against modern digital obsessions, revelling in a hyper-specific nostalgia of utility and dependability. Thankfully, when it comes to the Hemel Airfoil HF15, there’s no sense of stolen valour. It’s just a fantastic tool watch for the 21st century, tapping into all the right vintage cues and ensuring value for money.
The case
Pilot’s watches throughout history have tended to be quite large, as they were originally worn over flight jacket sleeves and needed to be legible with minimal lighting. By the ‘60s, sizes had shrunk thanks to some technological adjustments, but the main aesthetic cues still prioritised legibility. Contrast was the most important thing, so that you could quickly check your watch without taking your eyes off your instruments for too long. Hemel’s modernisation of the classic British pilot begins with the case size, available in either 42mm or 40mm configurations, each having 49mm or 47mm lug-to-lug lengths, respectively. The wrist presence from those long, slender lugs is still there but tailored to modern preferences of no lug overhang.
Most tool watches use brushed finishes to imply a sense of durability and reduce the visibility of scratches, however, it was pretty common for military watches to be polished because brushing simply took up too much time. The Airfoil HF15 sports an entirely polished case that lends it an air of sophistication without feeling overly dressy. This is matched with the ceramic bezel, providing a scratch-resistant and glossy surface. The case is also water-resistant to 100 metres, meaning that you can swim with it as long as you’re careful not to use the pushers underwater.
The dial
Although black and white are about the most contrasting colours you can pick, Hemel has elected to embrace the aged look rather than put legibility on top. Any part of the dial and the bezel insert that is meant to be luminous has been given a warm beige tone, as if the watch has seen the sun every day for the last 40 years. However, for the black and navy blue dial variants, areas of pure white paint like the sub-dial markers and the hands remain crisply white. There’s also a fully lumed dial model with a panda configuration of its black sub-dials, absolutely swathed in brown.
Featured above 6 o’clock is a broad arrow insignia, which is a mark that has accompanied British-issued military watches for over 100 years. It can even be seen on the pocket watch worn by the Duke of Wellington at the Battle of Waterloo, although it made its way to wristwatch dials during WWII. The one Hemel uses is quite stylised with a flare towards its base, which really makes it stand out as a military-inspired watch rather than any other chronograph.
The movement
When it comes to affordable chronograph movements, the Seagull ST19 has got to be a top contender. With origins that go back to the Swiss-made Venus 175 movement, the Chinese-made Seagull ST19 is surprisingly horologically significant for its price point. The 21,600vph beat rate and the 45-hour power reserve are solid specifications, and it’s a generally well-respected movement for long-term reliability, however, the real asset is the view through the exhibition caseback. You can’t expect anything crazy or hand-finished, but the architecture of the calibre itself is really pleasing. The colourful array of blue-coloured screws and lab-grown rubies play with the silver and golden components to add further playfulness and depth to the machine-finished components.
The strap
A leather strap with strong character is always the go-to option for a vintage-inspired pilot’s watch, and the Hemel Airfoil HF15 is no different. The brown leather strap is padded for a chunky appearance in its centre, then stitched down its length with neat, crimped edges. The strap comes with quick-release spring bars for easy removal, so if you want to experiment with other straps, you should find it quite easy. The 42mm case has a 22mm lug width, while the 40mm case has a 20mm lug width.
The verdict
Hemel clearly knows its own audience well, and it knows what sells. The Airfoil HF15 may not be the most exciting watch in its catalogue, nor the most original, but it ticks a whole lot of boxes that enthusiasts are looking for. The use of the ST19 movement matches the energy of the design, embracing mechanical engineering but keeping the prices attainable. It’s also capable as a tool watch, mainly thanks to the chunky steel case, the ceramic bezel, and the 100m of water resistance.
Hemel Airfoil HF15 pricing & availability
The Hemel Airfoil HF15 is now available from Hemel’s website. Price: US$499
| Brand | Hemel |
| Model | Airfoil HF15 |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 13.4mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) 42mm (D) x 13.4mm (T) x 49mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Black, navy blue, or luminous cream |
| Strap | Brown leather |
| Movement | Seagull ST19, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 45 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, running seconds, chronograph |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | US$499 |
Made in partnership with Hemel. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.