The ArtyA Gears collection brings bespoke, unique pieces for under $20k
Buffy Acacia- ArtyA’s new Gears collection is a highly customisable chronograph using innovative materials.
- Every configuration of the watch will be bespoke and unique.
- The movement is a skeletonised ETA/Valjoux 7750 with an enamel dial for the best mix of value and artistry.
We’ve been paying a lot of attention to ArtyA’s horological expressions over the last couple of years, especially in regards to speciality tourbillons and mind-boggling sapphire cases that can change colour. However, the ArtyA brand is far more varied than that, and it will try its hand at anything as long as there are boundaries being pushed. The new ArtyA Gears collection within its Chronographes series is pure exploration, with a variety of innovative case materials and dial colour combinations that can only be used once and never again.
Between seven case materials and 11 dial colours, there is a minimum of 77 unique pieces available to order before you account for how many forged carbon colours you can get. Some of those combinations will end up being much crazier than others, of course, such as blued TiDamas with a fluro pink dial, but your own creativity will be the only limitation. Let’s break down the case materials first. Stainless steel with or without a black DLC coating would be the most subtle option if you’re only buying an ArtyA Gears for the dial, but Damascus steel carries the same qualities along with hypnotic patterns. Those patterns are achieved by forging two different alloys together and folding them over on themselves, creating those bands of differing colours.
TiDamas is exactly what it sounds like, which is the Damascus treatment given to titanium. Both grade 2 (commercially pure) and grade 5 titanium are used for the banding, before the whole thing gets heat treated for its iridescent blue colour. Forged carbon is an interesting alternative to the regular layers of traditional carbon fibre, leading to marbled splotches of base colour and dark grey. It can be dyed pretty much any colour, so the options are exhaustive. Finally, sapphire crystal is also available, combining the whimsical nature of a see-through case along with the practicality of extreme scratch resistance.
The reason why it’s called the Gears collection is due to the skeletonised dial, revealing the titular gears of the movement beneath. Visually, there’s a lot going on. The upper layer of the dial is what’s customisable, and it consists of rings to create subdials, an outer ring for the minutes and applied hour indices, and a space for the ArtyA logo with 1/1 to denote its unique piece status. That part is actually coloured enamel, which gives it a beautiful depth and glossy sheen no matter what colour you choose. Then there are the skeletonised bridges which create a web-like structure above the movement plates, and the movement itself with perlage decoration and brushing.
The movement itself is based on the ubiquitous ETA/Valjoux 7750 chronograph that was skeletonised by Concepto Watch Factory, an independent manufacture based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. It’s been a popular movement for decades now, known for its reliability, performance, and low servicing cost relative to other automatic chronographs. The 4Hz beat rate gives the seconds hands a smooth sweep, and the power reserve of 48 hours is perfect for daily wear. The four subdials arranged around the centre pinion count minutes at 12, hours at 6, running seconds at 9, and a pointer date complication at 3 o’clock.
ArtyA Gears Chronographs price and availability
Each colour combination of the ArtyA Gears will only be produced once. Price: US$11,700 (stainless steel), US$17,600 (Damascus, TiDamas, carbon), US$41,300 (sapphire)
Brand | ArtyA |
Model | Gears |
Case Dimensions | 43mm (D) |
Case Material | Stainless steel (optional DLC coating) Damascus steel (optional DLC coating) TiDamas Forged carbon (customisable colour) Sapphire |
Water Resistance | 50 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
Dial | Customisable colour in enamel over skeletonised movement |
Bracelet and strap | Rubber or alligator leather with pin buckle closure |
Movement | ETA/Valjoux 7750 modified by Concepto, automatic |
Power Reserve | 48 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, pointer date |
Availability | Each combination available as a unique piece |
Price | US$11,700 (Stainless steel) US$17,600 (Damascus, TiDamas, Carbon) US$41,300 (Sapphire) |